Day 1 – Nanaimo to Rathtrevor Provincial Park (33 km)

The Band – The Weight

We pulled into Rathtrevor, were feelin’ about half past dead
We just needed some place where we could lay our heads
“Hey, mister, can you tell me where some bikers might find a bed?”
He just grinned and shook my hand, “no” was all he said

Take a load off Fanny
Take a load for free
Take a load off Fanny
and (and) (and) you put the load right on me

So this was the end of the day, now back to the beginning. Our first night of “camping out” in John and Carols’s yard just wasn’t the way to get ready for our first day of biking. Sure we had our tents, comfy sleeping pads and bags, however one must remember that the last time the Captain and Debbie Dewdrops slept on the ground was several decades ago. Funny how the body doesn’t adapt like it used to! Actually sleeping on the ground wasn’t all that bad once you found a comfortable position, if in fact you could. Okay, I would finally get the right position after almost an hour of squirming and drop off to sleep when the neighbor’s dog would start barking and start the process all over again. In addition to the barking dog(s) the scare light would come on whenever a squirrel would amble by adding to the disruption. Everything’s good by morning though as us old folks don’t really need more than a couple hours sleep to function at about 25%.

DD gives the big thumbs up
RR already hiding in the background

Even in our deprived state we did manage to tear down and pack up camp in under an hour and after coffee and bagels we were set to hit the road. So without so much as a by-your-leave to our hosts, we left. Wow this was great. The first 200 meters was a delightful downhill until we had to slog the bikes (an omen perhaps) across an abandoned rail line. Not to worry though, as the bike path after the crossing, was paved and pretty darn level. The trail stayed that way for several kilometers and didn’t we think we had this bikepacking gig made.

But just like that, the trail took a turn, two turns actually, and began a gentle meandering through a pleasantly forested area. Now we would have enjoyed the meandering all day but some sadistic circus carnie had morphed the path into a roller coaster extraordinaire. So for the next few kilometers the steep down hills were a bit of a hoot, except for the tree roots masquerading as speed bumps, but the up hills was just plain ugly! And this dear reader is where the theme of this Post, The Weight is derived from. Now for those who profess to have read Part 1 you will remember a comment about the copious amounts of gear being carried by our biking buddies LL and RR. If not, I’m sure you get the picture.

Lots of gear = lots of weight = lots of trouble doing steep climbs. The solution of course is not a solution, but a different mode of travel called hike-a-bike. Hike-a-bike is not a lot of fun but when there is no alternative?? Well part of the solution was to have the Captain cycle to the top of the hill(s) and hike down to help whoever was closest to collapsing and push his/her bike to the top. With quite a few rest breaks we managed to escape the ravages of the roller coaster trail. Back on the main roadways things leveled out for most of the rest of the days ride, except for one or two steep climbs that got us to the gates of Rathtrevor Park.

DD setting the pace

Fortunately we arrived at Rathtrevor at 11:30 am (only 29C) after a 4 hour ride. After setting up camp (no shade) we spent the rest of the day doing our damndest to not do anything but recuperate for tomorrow’s challenges. Oh, and RR spent quite a bit of time rearranging the loads more equitably on their bikes and just like in “The Weight” he:

Took a load off his Fanny
Took a load for free
Took a load off his Fanny
and (and) (and) he put the load right on Leslie

Well to say the ride today was a bit tough may be an understatement due to the terrain. However, you may also remember that one of the allures of riding on Vancouver Island was the expectation that the weather would be coolish compared to the Okanagan. And well it normally would be, but as luck would have it the weather gods were having one on us. By late morning the temperature was into the upper 20sC and heading to over 35C and worse with the high humidity. For my American readers that is 85 to 95 plus humidity.

DD puts together another fine dining experience

BUT HEY WE MADE IT KIDS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Day 2 – Rathtrevor to Little Qualicum Provincial Park (24 km)

The weather report for the ride today is a carbon copy of yesterday. Hot! Hot! Hot! Fortunately the ride was considerably shorter and not nearly as hilly, except for the steep climb to get out of the park.

Sleeping was much better for everyone last night. No barking dogs, no scare lights and the fact that we all were pretty drained will do the trick. Even the hordes of bunny rabbits in the park were well behaved and left us alone. There is one major difference for CC and DD in tenting rather than RVing and that is the middle of the night bathroom breaks. Depending on location it could be anywhere from 100 feet to 100 yards to the loo. Quite a venture especially if it is very dark out and definitely an odyssey if you are like DD and are very much directionally challenged! Normally CC and DD would try to make the trek together however DD did a solo jaunt and managed to get lost once, but she did find her way back after almost walking into the ocean.

Packing up the kit still seems to take quite a bit of time so even with getting up around 5:30 am, having coffee, eating breakfast, doing dishes and a few moments of morning meditation we are around 1 ½ to 2 hours before getting on our saddles. And speaking of saddles (nice segue CC) I expect there will be some saddle soreness for us today and most likely tomorrow as well. By 7:30 am we are on our way and yes even with our renewed energy and spirit, the climb out of the park starts the day with a short hike-a-bike.

The first part of the ride today takes us through the town of Parksville and onto the gravel track of an old railway bed from Parksville to Coombs (14 km). Very easy cycling and we arrive at Coombs around 9:30 am. We’re definitely not burning up the pavement (we’re on gravel remember) but it is a remarkable change from yesterday’s grind. Now Coomb’s only claim to “fame” is a country market building where goats graze on the grass covered roof. For those of us who have visited this place many years ago may recall that originally the country market was it. The market and basically nothing else. Not so the case today. The market has exploded into a quagmire of touristy enterprises that is incredibly popular, as evidenced by the hundreds of people populating the grounds, even at the early hour we were there. Despite the inconvenience of all the tourists (we didn’t see ourselves as tourists – biker snobs?) wandering about we enjoyed a break to load up on caffeine, buy some fruits and of course the Baguette then were ready for the second half of our ride. Even the parade of garbage trucks that descended on the place weren’t enough to chase us off too quickly.

The ride from Coombs to Little Qualicum Falls Park (10km) was more of a challenge than the first half of the ride with several long hills but only one or two that involved short hike-a-bikes. And yes as you can probably guess we arrived shortly after 11:30 am. Do I detect a pattern here? Entering the Park we stopped to check with the Camp Host on directions to our site. After a lengthy conversation the Captain, RR and LL managed to skulk away leaving DD engaged in conversation with the host. I know this comes as no surprise to those of you who know DD but we expected she would be along shortly. Well it wasn’t “shortly” and when we did see DD she was riding around like someone who was lost. She was but she did eventually manage to find us.

DD finally found us
the cleanup crew in action

Little Qualicum was a delightful place to do a bit of hiking and we spent a couple of hours in the afternoon wandering the shaded trails around the park and waterfalls. The forest canopy provided some relief from a very hot afternoon.

After dinner LL reviewed our route for the next day and discovered a potential short cut that would save us about 10 km on what was going to be our longest ride so far. A recognizance party was suggested to scout out the route; however the Captain failed miserably to enlist any additional scouts for the mission. Beleaguered as he was, he set out alone on his bike at dusk and within 30 minutes had the new route scouted out.

CC heads out to find the short cut

Returning to camp the Captain found the rest of the crew engaged in what was becoming a nightly ritual. The ritual had everyone sitting at a picnic table looking at their watches hoping 8 o’clock would arrive soon so they could get off to bed. All in all, a much more satisfying ride than our first day.

Before turning in for the night RR and CC made sure that the food bags were secured and tied up in a tree so as not to entice Yogi and friends into our camp. Given DD’s night adventure last night she was pleased to see that the outhouse was located directly across the road from our camp. Not even DD could get lost on such a short sojourn??

  • Special Report on the Coomb Goats – While in Coombs the Captain was requested by one of the Goat Leaders (said his name was Billy – obviously an alias) to meet with a group of Goats to discuss unionization. The Goats claim they are overworked, fed garbage and get no time off. In particular the Goats claim that after a grueling 12 hour shift on the roof, and after the tourists have gone for the day they are herded to the ground and forced to eat all the garbage left on the grounds by the said tourists. The Bosses claim the Goats get “time off the roof” to eat garbage, which they would eat anyway so what’s the beef. The Captain has agreed to meet again with the Goats at next year’s We’re Not Kids Anymore Conference.

I also failed to let folks know that in addition to LL being our route planner she filled the role of our trip Vlogger. Catch LL’s report on this section of our trip at this Hyperlink.  

By stubbs99


  1. You guys are amazing! Love your stories and photos! Gary you need to write a book! Your writing keeps us entertained! Wish I had half your energy to get out and about as you both do! Congrats, Shirley

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